Shedding season: how to brush out a double-coated dog
To get a double-coated dog through a heavy shed, brush in three passes. Work out any mats first, then pull the loose undercoat with an undercoat rake like the Jeffers Magic Spring Undercoat Rake, then smooth the top coat with a slicker brush like the Jeffers Dual-Level Slicker Brush. Use light pressure and short strokes in the direction the coat grows.
Mats come out with a dematting tool like the Jeffers Dematting Comb and Rake before any rake goes near them. And keep it short: a few ten-minute sessions a week, daily at the peak, beat one long one, and your dog will put up with them far better.
Does my dog have a double coat?
A double coat is two layers: longer, coarser guard hairs on top, and a soft, dense undercoat underneath, close to the skin. To check, part your dog's fur down to the skin. A soft, woolly layer under the outer coat is undercoat.
German shepherds, huskies, golden and Labrador retrievers, corgis, Australian shepherds, and Pomeranians all have one, along with plenty of mixes. Poodles, Yorkies, and greyhounds don't. On a single-coated dog, skip the rake: a regular brush is the kinder tool.
Why do double-coated dogs shed so much in the fall?
Many double-coated dogs shed hardest twice a year, in spring and fall, as the coat changes over for the season. In the fall, the lighter summer undercoat comes out to make way for a thicker winter one. People call it "blowing coat": the undercoat lets go in clumps and drifts rather than a hair at a time. Dogs who live mostly indoors often shed more steadily all year, with smaller peaks.
It's tempting to shave a dog who's shedding this much. Talk to a groomer first. A double coat insulates against heat as well as cold and shields the skin from sun, and a shaved double coat can grow back patchy.
Tufts and drifts during the season are normal. Bald patches, red or flaky skin, sores, or a dog who won't stop scratching are not. That's a question for your vet, who outranks any brush and any blog post, this one included.
Step 1: How do you get mats out before you brush?
Mats form where fur rubs or stays damp: behind the ears, under the legs, on the britches (the fluffy back of the thighs), and anywhere a collar or harness rubs. Feel for them with your fingers before you start. An undercoat rake dragged through a mat pulls at the skin, and if a bath is coming, work mats out first, because water tightens them.
A dematting tool has sharp, serrated blades that cut through a mat instead of dragging it, which is much gentler than tugging it apart with a brush. The Jeffers Dematting Comb and Rake is about 7 inches long and works in either hand. Pick the style by the job:
- Comb, 9 blades, or Rake, 10 blades: all-purpose, for most coats
- Comb, 11 blades: for hard-to-reach spots
- Comb or Rake, 12 blades: for tight, dense mats
Hold the mat at its base, between the tool and your dog's skin, so the skin isn't tugged. Work from the outer edge of the mat inward in short strokes, keep the blades off the skin, and never pull. If a mat sits tight against the skin, or the coat has matted into a sheet, that's a job for a groomer.
Step 2: How do you use an undercoat rake without hurting your dog?
A regular brush mostly skims the top coat. An undercoat rake reaches down past it and pulls out the loose undercoat underneath.
The pins on the Magic Spring rake float on springs. They rotate and retract, so they give a little and follow the curve of your dog's body instead of digging in. It has a non-slip handle and comes in three pin styles: a single row of 13 pins, a single row of 20 pins, or a double row of 13 long and 12 short pins. If you're not sure which suits your dog's coat, send us a note and we'll help you pick.
To use it:
- Work in sections. Start on the back and sides, and finish one patch before moving on.
- Go with the grain. Short strokes in the direction the coat grows, with light pressure. Let the pins do the work.
- Go gentle on thin skin. Ease up on the belly and the insides of the legs, or skip the rake there entirely.
- Move on when it comes away clean. Once the rake pulls only a little fur from a section, that section is done for today.
Expect more fur than seems possible from one dog, and brush outside if you can. Stop for the day if the skin looks red or irritated, or your dog has had enough: a dog who doesn't dread brushing is worth more than one clean session. If you bathe your dog during the shed, the bath loosens a lot of undercoat, so rake again once the coat is completely dry.
Step 3: What does a slicker brush add?
A slicker brush is the finish: fine wire pins on a flat pad that catch the loose fur the rake left on the surface, plus small tangles. The Jeffers slicker mixes long and short pins on a curved head, so the long pins reach into the coat while the short ones smooth the top.
Go gently here, too. Slicker pins can scratch skin if you press down, so hold the brush lightly and let the pins skim. For a small tangle, hold the fur at its base while you work it loose.
How do the tools compare?
| Tool | Its job | When to use it | Go easy because |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dematting Comb and Rake | Cuts through mats | First, only where there are mats | The blades are sharp; never pull |
| Magic Spring Undercoat Rake | Pulls loose undercoat | Second, the main event | It's for double coats only |
| Dual-Level Slicker Brush | Smooths the top coat and small tangles | Last, the finish | Pins scratch if you press down |
| Millers Forge Nail Clipper | Nail trims | While the kit is out | Sized for small and medium dogs |
How do you keep a wiggly dog still for brushing?
Give them something better to think about. The SodaPup eStick is a lick mat on a handle: spread something soft on the head (plain yogurt, or a peanut butter without xylitol) and have a helper hold it out while you brush. It's made for licking, not chewing, so take it away if your dog starts biting down.
On your own? The SodaPup Mandala Softie eTray suction-cups to a smooth floor or the side of the tub, so both your hands stay free. It won't grip textured floors, and it's soft enough to chew, so stay close and pick it up when the food is gone. Freeze either one loaded the night before and it lasts longer. Our slow feeder guide has more on lick mats.
Should you trim nails while you're at it?
If your dog is settled and the treats are out, it's a good moment. The Millers Forge Dog Nail Clipper is a classic plier-style clipper with sharp blades, spring action, and a safety stop bar, sized for small and medium dogs. Large and giant breeds with thick nails do better with a bigger clipper, so if you're brushing out a shepherd or a husky, this one isn't for them.
The stop bar limits how much nail slides between the blades, but it can't see the quick (the live part of the nail), so go slowly and trim a thin slice at a time. On light nails, stop well before the pink. On dark nails, stop when the cut surface shows a darker, moist-looking center. Keep styptic powder nearby in case you nick one, and for a dog who's new to it, a few nails a day is plenty.
Where should you start?
If your dog is blowing coat right now, start with the undercoat rake. It's the tool that makes the difference during a shed. Add the slicker for the finish, and keep a dematting tool on hand if your dog's coat runs long or tends to mat. Brush little and often, keep it gentle, and end every session with a treat.
One more thing once the winter coat fills in: a thicker coat changes how snugly a harness sits. Re-check the fit with the two-finger test from our harness measuring guide.
All four tools are in Grooming Tools, and each page says which coats it suits and how to use it gently.